Wednesday, April 29, 2009

World's Most Dangerous Road (Bolivia)

¨You are going to die. You are definitely going to die.¨ This was he consensus of everyone in my hostel when I told them I booked biking the ¨World´s Most Dangerous Road¨ with one of the cheap unknown companies.

"Do you want to leave your passport with me in case you don't come back?"

"Oooh, can I have your bed, I don't like the top bunk." I threw my pillow at my inconsiderate dorm mates.

I didn´t mean to do it, but I had gone into the office and the woman spent so much time with me that I just felt bad not doing it. Everyone else seemed to go with the bigger companies.
They have to scrimp somewhere to save money so it is on the bikes???? But anyways, I like supporting the locals, it's part of responsible tourism.

My group was small, just four of us. We started biking down the road in clouds, far above treeline. Semis were passing us and I was terrified. My brakes didn´t really work, I was wobbling on my bike and hearing strange sounds and I happened to look down and see that a very key part of my bike was taped. Awesome.

It didn't help that a girl on the tour biked up behind me, her eyes wide saying I had a big problem, and I eyed her back with even bigger eyes and then she said, "Never mind, it's not like you can do anything. You'll be fine. I mean, I think you'll be fine."

I never did figure out what the problem was.

The view was spectacular, stunning cliffs and rock faces, huge waterfalls tumbling down rock. Clouds swirling in the valley below.

I was shaking and I didn´t know if it was from being cold, malaria shivers, or because I was so scared. But I was loving it too, I mean, how often in life is one truly scared?

We made it down the paved part and to the rocky road where only bikes go.

"I've never mountain biked before, does anyone have any tips?" I asked.

"Just be bouncey to absorb the shock, " a guy on my tour replied.

Whew. "Ok, I can do that, it's my specialty," I said.

"I've known you for an hour and a half, but that doesn´t suprise me one bit."

The views were spectacular. More vegetation and waterfalls, a really windy road with a huge cliff drop off. We could see demolished vehicles with vegetation growing over the wreckage. As I got more comfortable I went from being the one that was waiting behind the others to the one up in the front, trying to race the guide. The speed was addictive. And who we kidding, going slow is not a skill that I have.

In the end, I was glad I went with the less expensive company because I never would have had the same adrenaline rush if I had been on a more sturdy bike which made it so much more fun in the end. And now I want to try more mountain biking.

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